PixelatedImage Blog

I have about 24 hours left in Bangladesh, then begin the long journey home via Singapore and Seoul.

This week in Bangladesh has been a surprise; I enjoyed this place and its people more than I could have predicted. Being on assignment doesn’t give me the freedom to do any of my own shooting, we work long days and each moment not shooting is spent driving from location to location. So it should come as no surprise to you that I got no images of my own, just this one en route to an early morning location. But all the same, let me tell you why Bangladesh has just moved to the top spot on my “I want to come back here and photograph this place” list.

We drove north, almost to the Indian border, and once outside of Dhakka – of which  I saw very little and liked even less – the countryside becomes a spectacular sprawl of endless rice patties of impossible green, dotted here and there with thatch irrigation pump houses, and criss-crossed with footpaths. Bangladesh is primarily a Muslim nation and the women walk covered in bright flowing fabrics, accompanied by playful children and old men in skullcaps and beards to envy. Each little town felt like a frontier town – chaotic, dusty, and so full of potential photographs it made my heart ache to drive on by – and as we drove further and further from Dhakka this only increased. Everywhere I looked there was something visually arresting and I’d wager a bet that per sq. kilometer the areas of Bangladesh that I visited had more to pull my eye than any place I’ve ever visited.

We stayed in Sherpur, in a hotel so unremarkable I couldn’t tell you its name. By way of amenities my room had a tap for cold water and a toilet. And a mosquito net of dubious effect. The mattress was so hard I contemplated lying on the concrete instead. But waking in the morning to the call to prayer from the mosque next door and beginning the day with fresh-off-the-grill roti, pratha, and chai as the sun came up, made it all worth it.

It’s cheap here. Two of us had an incredible meal and two sodas for a combined bill of $2. If economy alone determines where you go to shoot, Bangladesh is the cheapest I’ve seen.

Our days were spent among the most gracious people. So kind and patient. Gary, my producer, and I, have spent time among people from many different cultures and hands down the Bangladeshis were among the most hospitable and patient. Their driving skills leave something to be desired, but if (and it’s a big IF here – I’ve never felt my mortality so keenly) you survive the roads, the food they’ll serve you is fantastic.

Lastly, and this is the reason I’m hesitant to even publish this post, once out of Dhakka, we didn’t see a tourist, or another white face for that matter, for 5 days. I’d hate to see that change. There were no postcard shops, no trinkets and knick knacks, no “you want to buy________?” It was life, actual and unadulterated by tourism and it’s been a long time since I’ve seen that. Bangladesh is not for everyone for that very reason. It would be a challenging place for many to travel in. Not many hotels, very litte (if any) english signage, and none of the usual infrastructure that props up the tourist. You would live by your wits here, and be forced to interact with the people. You’d have no choice but to learn the language; on my second night I ordered mutton in a restaurant by making noises like a sheep until someone figured it out. I think those things just make Bangladesh more appealing to travel, not less, but not everyone wants squat toilets and forced dependence on the good-will of strangers.

I’m keen to leave Dhakka, but if I could stay, jump on a motorcycle, and spend two week visting the villages, I’d be thrilled. As it is, I’m heading home, to Vancouver, and can’t wait to get back to see Sharon, visit my chiropractor, eat some sushi, and put the finishing touches on my book. I’ll be blogging reliably again from the 24th. See you then. As for photographs, once the clients have seen them it’ll be your turn. I’ll let you know.